Chapter 8 Game meats. - Free Online Library (2024)

After reading this chapter, you should be able to

* explain how fat affects flavor.

* describe how to tenderize meat by aging.

* explain how to care for a carcass after it has been killed.

* describe how the slaughter affects the meat.

* demonstrate h o"= to tenderize game meats.

* understand the use of marinades.

* explain '"That affects the quality of game meats.

* demonstrate how to add fats.

* demonstrate how to apply a marinade.

* explain the difference between farmed game and wild game.

* demonstrate how to lard and bard.

* demonstrate how to skin a rabbit.

* demonstrate how to remove the rack from rabbits.

* demonstrate how to remove the baron from hare.

* demonstrate how to stuff a frog's leg.

KEY TERMS

age

aging

furred game

marbling

pawed game

slaughter

tenderizing

vension

webbed game

wild game

Game, under the command of the knowing chef, undergoes a greatnumber of cunning modifications and transformations, and supplies themain body of those highly flavored dishes which make up trulygastronomical cookery.

JEAN ANTHELME BRILLAT-SAVARIN

Game's Coming of Age

While game has gained a strong resurgence in interest from thedining public, as well as the modern chef, there is really very littlethat is new with game cookery. Game was the primary meat source on landor in the air, before the domestication of animals and birds, since theNeolithic cook grilled the first steak. American Indians are creditedwith being the first avid game hunters and cooks, and European settlersto the New World documented their legendary hunting skills. With themigration of these settlers came their own culinary traditions andrecipes that merged with the methods devised by the Indians.

Although game cookery is widely practiced in many U.S. food serviceoperations, some of the information contained in this chapter may not beapplicable in modern commercial kitchens. American health code lawsrestrict the presence of field-dressed and ungraded meats in mostlicensed kitchens. However, game is often dressed and prepared in manyAmerican private clubs as well as numerous foreign food serviceoperations. For that reason, the following information on gamepreparation is included.

Game Meats

The French word gibier applies to all animals being hunted andeaten, and is the recognized word in cooking wild game. It is derivedfrom the verb gibercer, which means "to hunt." However, inmodern times, there is such a shortage of wild game that it is unusualto find a restaurant that solely uses actual wild-caught game. The priceand the difficulty of maintaining continuous quality are tootroublesome.

Internationally, there are a few places, very close to the sources,that claim their game is wild. However, with the stringent restrictionsof modern health codes and the fact that most game is controlled in someway, there is a question as to the validity of their claims of"truly wild." According to John Ash (1991), "Theresurgence in game cooking in America would not be possible were it notfor the recent availability of conscientiously processed, farm-raisedgame birds and meats from quality-oriented purveyors, both in Americaand abroad."

In the wild, animals have to work hard to sustain themselves andthey tend to develop tough lean muscles, with very little fat. Wildanimals also eat a varied diet, so the flavor of their meat has anintensity that most people refer to as "gamy," or strong. Withthe advent of farming game, the term game has become a little distortedin its meaning, in that there are definite distinctions between eatingtrue wild game and farm-raised game.

Wild and farm-raised meats, although they have subtle variations,both taste earthy and complex. This offers a refreshing change on menusthat normally deal only with their seemingly bland cousins. They havewonderful eating qualities, and when they are cooked with anunderstanding of their potential challenges, they create superb eatingexperiences for the guest (Figure 8-1).

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HOW FAT AFFECTS GAME ANIMALS

To render the meat as perfect for cooking as possible, great carehas to be taken with the handling of the meat, all the way from theslaughtering to the pot. Whether the animal is farmed or wild, thechallenge to the chef is the fact that all these animals have a distinctlack of pure body fat, making them one of the most difficult foods torender moist, flavorful and delicious as a meal.

This lack of even fat distribution can be overcome by carefuladditions of fats during the preparations. These can be in the form ofrich marinades, and during the cooking, in the form of larding andbarding. These additions compensate for the lack of flavor andmoisture--to an extent. However, the flavor must be further developed bythe addition of aromatics in the form herbs, spices, wines and spirits,and other fats such as butter and oils, all carried in the perfect saucerendered from the animal's bones.

Age

When the chef is choosing animals for the menu, it is importantthat they be as young as possible. Their age will contribute to thechef's likelihood for success, ensuring a tender, flavorful pieceof meat every time. As mentioned, the one drawback in the case of wildgame is their distinctive lack of body fat, especially in the form ofmarbling in the meat fibers.

Fat contributes to the tenderness of meat by acting as a"shortening" agent, much as it does in pastry, allowing themeat to stay moist. When it is melted during cooking, it penetrates thetissue and helps separate the fibers of meat, lubricating the tissue andso making it easier to cut and eat. Without much fat, otherwise tendermeat becomes tough, dry, and unappealing to the palette. Surface ordeposit fat is much less successful in penetrating the tissue thanmarbled fat, giving marbled fat a huge advantage over surface fat. Thisis why so much value is placed on creating good marbling in steaks.

The younger animals have a more finely fibered tissue, hence moreconnective tissue is found in the meat, making it tougher and difficultto render edible. However, the collagen of young animals is much moreeasily denatured than older connective tissue. So, the chef must find anacceptable balance between the age and the relative disadvantages of ayoung animal, especially with this classification of meat.

When using completely wild game, it becomes a bit of a guessinggame as to how old the animal is, especially when they are still atlarge or in the sights of the hunter. Using good judgment and generallyfollowing the correct procedures, a chef will end up with a fineproduct.

With farmed game, the chef is somewhat safe because the animals areslaughtered at the farm when they are at their best age for killing.Farm-raised game is meatier and more tender than wild game, and it has abit more fat, although noticeably less than beef or pork The fat in gameanimals is concentrated on the back or under the spine, rather thanbeing dispersed as marbling throughout the meat. An approximate guidefor all these animals is that they should be between 3 and 5 years oldfor the best results.

THE SLAUGHTER OF THE GAME

Many people who hunt for wild game fail to bring out the best inthe meat, which can be mined by poor field dressing and butchering, andimproper preparation on the way to the table.

By far, the most humane methods of slaughter are those that resultin the highest quality of meat. Any kind of stress on the animalimmediately before slaughter, such as fasting, duress in transport,fear, or being chased or shot has an adverse effect on the finalproduct. This is due to the body consuming its own energy stores whenmuscles are active, which creates a waste product known as lactic acidthat is carried away by the blood or further oxidized while an animal isstill alive.

For a time after an animal is killed, the muscles continue to workat maintaining body temperature, and because blood is no longer flowing,lactic acid accumulates. Stress in animals, however, results in musculartension depleting the supply of lactic acid. The muscles accumulate lesslactic acid after death and the meat has a lower acid content, thusspoiling quicker. Commercial slaughter is carried out as humanely aspossible, with the animal being stunned, usually with a blow orelectrical discharge to the head. It is then hung up and bled from oneof the major blood vessels. This creates less stress on the animal andresults in much longer lasting and stable meat.

Rules for Preparing Wild Game Meats

When preparing wild game meats in the field, there are some veryimportant rules that should be followed.

* Wear plastic gloves at all times.

* Clean your knife continually, especially when you are workinginside the carcass, to prevent cross-contamination.

* Keep the carcass clean by getting it off the ground as quickly aspossible. Always use clean equipment during dressing.

* Remove the intestines, lungs, liver, and heart as soon after thekill as possible.

* Carefully remove any musk glands that exude a powerful acid thatquickly ruins the game.

* Protect the cavity from insect invasion.

* Ensure that the organs are not pierced and that the animal'shair is kept free of exposed flesh at all times.

* Cool the carcass quickly and keep it cool during processing andtransportation.

* At this time, it is advisable to hang the animal to drain and dryout. (The U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends hanging meat by thehind legs.)

* Wipe out any excess blood in the gutted cavity with paper towelsand fresh water, making sure to remove any loose hairs.

* Dry the cavity well and prop it open until the cavity is verydry. This is enhanced by good air circulation.

* To prevent severe spoilage, hang the meat at the propertemperature.

AGING LARGE GAME MEAT

Like cheese and wine, meat benefits from a certain period of aging,or slow chemical change, before it is cooked and consumed. The flavorimproves as it begins to tenderize, and it becomes much easier to cookwith. The technique of aging meat is the practice of holding the carcassor the larger cuts of meat at temperatures of 34[degrees] to37[degrees]F (1.1 [degrees] to 2.8[degrees]C) for 7 to 14 days and evenas long as 30 days to allow the enzymes in the meat to break down someof the complex proteins in the carcass. Aged meat is always more tenderand flavorful, and aging is a necessary procedure with game meat.However, there are some basic rules:

* Do not age any game carcass if it was shot during warm weatherand was not chilled rapidly enough.

* Do not age animals that were severely stressed before beingkilled.

* If the wounds are too extensive over the body, aging is notrecommended.

* The animal should be at least 1 year of age before aging willmake any difference.

* Aging is not recommended for carcasses with little or no fatcovering.

* After about 2 weeks, tenderization slows down and bacterial slimebegins to develop. This should be avoided at all costs.

One of the results of this aging process is the production of arather pungent flavor that to some people is desirable in all game, butwhich puts others off the idea of consuming wild game. Even after aging,the strong flavor or gaminess can be somewhat eliminated by soaking themeat in a mixture of salt, vinegar, and water overnight. Use 1/2 cup(118 mL) of vinegar to 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water with 1/4 cup (59 mL) ofkosher salt.

The Tenderizing of Game Meat

The most common method of tenderizing meat is to damage itphysically by cutting, pounding, and grinding. These are all ways ofbreaking down the structure of the muscle bundles, and rendering themmore edible and digestible to the human being. Grinding the meat is themost powerful method, because it breaks down the tissue into tiny shredsand is normally the way 40 to 50 percent of the large animal carcassesare processed.

Tenderizing can also be done with the application of certain plantenzymes or acid marinades. These enzymes have been used for hundreds ofyears, and are still used today in many ways. In Mexico, meat has beentenderized by wrapping it in papaya leaves before cooking. Today, aderivative of those leaves is the enzyme papain, which is availablecommercially, diluted in salt and sugar.

Several other plants, including the fig, the pineapple, and somefungi produce protein-digesting enzymes that can break down muscle andconnective proteins in meat. There is, however, a problem with most ofthese tenderizers. They generally tenderize only the surface area of themeat on which they are applied, so they really need to be injected intothe meat to help their penetration. These tenderizers do not commonlyreact until they reach a temperature of 140[degrees] to 175[degrees]F(60[degrees] to 79[degrees]C), so they do not help the raw tenderizationof meat, but they do help during the cooking of a braise or a fine stew.

The Marinating of Game Meats

After the aging process, the flavor and tenderness of the game meatcan be further enhanced by the use of marinating. However, the marinadeshould in no way mask or dramatically change the integrity of thenatural flavor of the meat. There are many types of marinades, but thefunction of the marinade should be understood before deciding what tomarinate and what to use. Consider the following:

* The marinade will tenderize the muscle fibers of certain meats.

* The marinade is intended to improve the flavor of the meat bypenetrating the meat fiber.

* The marinade does preserve the meat for a small period of time.

* There are two basic types of marinade:

** A cooked marinade, is generally used for larger pieces of meatand stays on the meat for a long period of time, up to 4 to 5 days.

** A uncooked marinade is used for smaller pieces of meat, and isnormally on the meat a shorter period of time, between 2 and 8 hours.

* The marinade generally contains some kind of oil that helpsprotect the meat during marinating.

* The ingredients used should be compatible with the meat that theyare intended for.

* The ingredients can include herbs, spices, acid liquids, salts,fruits, alcohol and wines, flavored oils, and pungent vegetables.

* The meat needs to be turned regularly in the marinade.

* Any alcohol, including wine, used in a marinade should first bebrought to a boil and chilled before use, because the raw alcohol tendsto burn the surface of the meat.

* The marinade can be used as part of the cooking of the dish thatit was used to marinade.

* The acids in a marinade that contains vinegar, citric juices, orother acidic liquids break down protein chains in meats, making themmore tender. However, food should not sit in a marinade for too long.

RECIPE 8-1CookedMarinadeRecipe Yield: To marinate a6- to 8-pound (2.7- to3.6-kg) piece of meatMEASUREMENTS INGREDIENTSU.S. METRIC1/4 cup 59 mL Olive oil2 cups 473 mL Mixed root vegetables: carrots, onions, shallots, garlic, fennel, celery, and any other of your choice, finely chopped1 bunch 1 bunch Mixed herbs of choice, including chives, thyme, and tarragon1/4 cup 59 mL Mixed toasted whole spices of choice1 cup 237 mL Red wine vinegar3 cups 710 mL Red wine1 cup 237 mL PortPREPARATION STEPS1. Heat the oil in a pan and saute the vegetables to a lightgolden brown.2. Add the liquids, herbs, and spices and simmer for 30 minutes.3. Cool completely before adding to the meat.PREPARATION STEPS1. Heat the oil in a pan and saute the vegetables to a light2. Add the liquids, herbs, and spices and simmer for 30 minutes.3. Cool completely before adding to the meat.TIPThis marinade can be usedfor 6 hours up to a fewdays, depending on thetoughness and thickness ofthe meats.RECIPE 8-2UncookedMarinadeRecipe Yield: Marinates2 pounds (1 kg) of meatMEASUREMENTS INGREDIENTSU.S. METRIC1 each 1 each Carrot, small dice1 each 1 each Celery stalk, small dice4 each 4 each Shallots, fine dice1 each 1 each Clove garlic, minced2 each 2 each Parsley stalks1 each 1 each Rosemary sprig with the stalk removed1 each 1 each Thyme sprig with stalk removed4 each 4 each Juniper berries, crushed2 each 2 each Star anise, roughly crushed1/4 cup 59 mL Olive oil1/4 cup 59 mL Red wine vinegar1 tablespoon 15 mL SaltPREPARATION STEPS1. Combine all the ingredients and let the mixture sit at roomtemperature for 1 hour before applying to the meat.PREPARATION STEPS1. Combine all the ingredients and let the mixture sit at roomtemperature for 1 hour before applying to the meat.TIPThis marinade can be usedfor steaks, chops, or anysmall cut of game meatthat is around 1 inch inthickness for 3 to 4 hours,turning regularly.

Adding Fat to the Game Meat

Because of the distinct lack of fat in most game animals, itbecomes necessary for the chef to think about adding fats to the meatsbefore cooking, during cooking, and after cooking in the form of anaccompanying sauce. The addition of fat to the meats improves itsoverall flavor and gives the meat moisture to develop the overall eatingqualities.

* Barding and larding are both of great importance when preparinggame meat for cooking, because they are one of the only ways ofintroducing the much-needed fat into recipes for game meat. It isimperative to have a supply of very fine pork fat available, as well asa generous amount of fatty bacon. Thin slices and strips of both ofthese fats are used to either cover (bard) or insert (lard) into thetender meat of the game. This process is used to protect the meat fromoverbrowning and from getting dry during cooking. (See Chapter 7 formore on larding and barding.) Sometimes, certain herbs or vine leavesare put between and around the pork fat and the meat to give adistinctive flavor. Wrapping in bacon is suitable for smaller cuts ofmeat. Steaks, for example, can be wrapped in bacon before cooking, toallow the meat to baste naturally during the cooking process.

* Stuffing with a fatty product involves placing a very nicestuffing, containing a good quantity of fat, down the center of a verylean piece of well-marinated game meat and coating it with bacon or porkfat. This greatly enhances your chances of rendering the meat moist andflavorful.

* Basting while cooking with a good quality fat during all drymethods of cooking helps achieve a nice, moist result.

* Tumbling marinade and fats into game meats can be an excellentalternative method of introducing fats and flavor into game meats.Tumbling is a modern technique and challenges traditional methods; itcan provide excellent results. Vacuum tumbling is a method of marinatingmeat, The tumbling massages the product, creating more relaxed meat, andthen the vacuum causes the product to absorb more marinade, whichresults in a moister, easier to cook, and more tender product. Tumblers,or tumbler-massagers, provide mechanical agitation for the meat and themarinade solution. The meat and a solution or dry mix are placed into arevolving canister and allowed to tumble, ideally at 33[degrees] to35[degrees]F (0.6[degrees] to 1.7[degrees]C). Game meats are ideal forthis process because of their stronger connective tissue. Meats aretumbled until they pick up sufficient moisture; the length of timedepends on the type of meat, the cut, and the tumbler speed. Putting avacuum on a tumbler facilitates the uptake of liquid into the meattissues. It further tenderizes the meat by expanding the meat muscle andbreaking some of the muscle fibers.

FURRED GAME

The term furred game is generally given to a larger animal that hasa fur-covered skin. Almost all large game meats fall into this category.Because the larger and smaller cuts are similar to veal, lamb, and goat,they are covered in Chapter 9.

This category can be split into two smaller classifications: hoofedand pawed. (In some countries, they are called furs and pelts.)

Venison

Venison is the meat of the red, fallow, or roe deer. These areruminant (cud-chewing), even-toed, hoofed animals with antlers that areshed each year. Fallow deer are the most common, prized for theirtenderness and flavored meat. All venison, whether wild or farm-raised,is low in fat and cholesterol, yet still high in protein.

In the wild, the animal has to work hard to sustain itself and, asa result, develops tough muscles. Wild animals also eat a varied diet,so the flavor of their meat has an intensity that most people refer toas "gamey." Most farm-raised deer live on natural, plantedpastures and eat a stable diet. The meat should be dark and firm, withclear white fat. Because there is only a little fat on venison, the meattends to be dry, so additional fat or liquid is added for cooking.Venison is a fine, delicately textured, and virtually fat-free meat,ideal for imparting fat and flavor through marinating (Figure 8-2).

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Elk

American elk, or wapiti, is native to the northern part of theWestern Hemisphere from southern Canada to northern Mexico. They havedark brown fur on the head and neck, and creamy gray fur on the back andflanks. A full-grown stag stands up to 4.9 feet (1.5 m) high at theshoulder, and weighs up to 750 pounds (340 kg).

Elk meat tastes like mild (almost sweet) beef, with only a veryfaint venison flavor. Elk can be substituted equally for venison in moststandard venison recipes and not only has a very pleasant taste but isalso very low in both cholesterol and fat (Figure 8-3).

Bison

Bison is the largest terrestrial animal in North America, where itis commonly referred to as buffalo. The bison is recognized by the humpover the front shoulders and the short, sharply pointed horns curvingoutward and up from the sides of the enormous head and slimmerhindquarters. Mature bulls of the North American bison are about 6 1/2feet (2 m) tall at the hump and 9 to 12 feet (2.7 to 3.7 m) long. Theyweigh 1800 to 2400 pounds (850 to 1100 kg); the female being thesmaller. The head, neck, forelegs, and front parts of the body have athick coat of long, dark hair. The rear part of the body is covered withmuch shorter hair.

Bison has an unforgettable sweet flavor and a rich texture; it canbe cooked similarly to beef (Figure 8-4). Bison is a highly nutrient,dense food because of the proportion of protein, fat, minerals, andfatty acids compared to caloric value. It also contains large amounts ofiron, zinc, phosphorus, and several essential fatty acids. It is lessfatty than beef, and because of that, has almost a cleaner taste.

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Pawed

The term pawed game applies to animals that have pawed feet asopposed to hoofed feet. They are the smallest of the game meats and arenot used as often as they probably should be; they have great flavor andare very versatile when cooking.

Rabbit

Rabbits were known to be used for meat as far back as 1500 BC.Their meat is white and has its own distinctive flavor, comparingfavorably to the flavor of veal. It has many advantages to the chef,including fewer calories, a lower percentage of fat, and lesscholesterol than chicken, beef, lamb, or pork. Because of these traits,rabbit is gaining popularity with health-conscious consumers and isbecoming a popular menu item. When preparing fresh-caught rabbits, it isimportant to understand the technique of removing the skin.

1. Slice through the skin, up toward the inside of one of the legs,cutting around the paws and pulling the leg out of the skin (Figure8-5A). Repeat for each leg.

2. Remove the tail and, using the tip of the knife to loosen thetissue between skin and flesh, draw the skin down toward the head(Figure 8-5B).

3. Cut around the front paws and continue to draw the skin over thehead (Figure 8-5C).

4. Cut off the ears and trim the skin off the head. Now the skinshould be completely removed and you can start to remove the gut.

5. Make an incision from vent to ribs, along the middle of thebelly, and through the rib cage, making sure not to go so deep that youperforate the intestines.

6. Break through the skin of the diaphragm, separating the bellyfrom the organs. Lift out the lungs, liver, heart, and intestines, andseparate those you wish to use.

7. Wash the rabbit well, taking particular care with the cavity,and pat dry.

Once skinned, the rabbit can be cut into pieces for cooking as achicken would be cut for saute; however, one of the more popular yetdifficult pieces to remove is the rack:

1. Remove the hind and fore legs and reserve for further use.

2. Remove the saddle from the carcass, leaving the rib cage intact.

3. Chine the rack with poultry scissors, splitting into two racks(Figure 8-6A).

4. Break the rib bones half way to their ends with a sharp blow ofa heavy knife (Figure 8-6B).

5. Pull the excess ribs over the ones attached to the flesh,removing the connective tissue and flesh from between the bones tocreate the French look (Figure 8-6C).

6. Cut the excess off at the eye of the meat, leaving the rack.

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Hare

The wild hare looks similar to a large rabbit and, although theyare from the same family, they are very different. Hares are much largerin size and have a very dark, rich gamey flesh.

Hares are recognized as being good for eating if they have verytender ears when torn and when they have short, easily broken claws.Another sign is their harelip, which in young animals is not as definedas when they are older. They are at their best at the age of 7 to 8months and weighing then about 2 1/2 to 5 pounds (1.1 to 2.3 kg). Veryyoung hares (leverets) may be roasted whole, but for larger hares, thebody alone is used and is known as a saddle or baron of hare. The younghares do not need to be hung, because they are generally very tender.After gutting, the older animals can be hung by their hind legs for 5 to7 days to improve the flavor.

Hares should be bled as soon as possible after killing; the bloodis then saved for further use in the sauces and stews that areparticular only to hares. One of the unique cuts that can be removedfrom this animal is the baron, which is the name given to a saddle and arack still affixed and cooked together.

To prepare a baron of hare:

1. Remove the hind legs and loins from the body.

2. Remove the bones from the loins, and the aitchbone from thelegs.

3. Remove the sinew and silverskin from the back of the baron.

4. Stuff with a sausage and fruit dressing, and wrap the baron withbackfat.

5. Tie securely with butcher's twine.

Webbed

The only member of the webbed game family is the frog, which arecaught wild in many countries of the world. There are many types of frogavailable for cooking, and they are much prized for their flavor. Frogscan be cooked in a host of different ways and appear on the menu asappetizers, salads, and entrees.

Frog

Frog species including the green frog (Rana clamitans), the leopardfrog (Rana pipiens), and the pickerel frog (Rana palustris) are farmedor harvested from the wild for the table. Without doubt, the bullfrog(Rana catesbeiana) has the greatest yield of meat and potential forculinary development. The common bullfrog, sometimes referred to as the"giant frog" or "jumbo frog," is the largest nativeNorth American species, often reaching 8 inches (20 cm) in body length.The frog's legs are removed just below the pelvis and are normallybought skinless. When they are large, the legs can be stuffed and servedas an appetizer or several may be served as an entree.

To prepare stuffed frogs' legs:

1. Remove the meat from the foot end of the leg, peeling it backwithout breaking it and leaving it still attached to the bone (Figure8-7A).

2. Beat lightly to form a flattened piece of meat (Figure 8-7B).

3. Fill with stuffing and roll around the thigh.

4. Wrap in caul fat and cook as desired (Figure 8-7C).

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Cooking Game

The scope of this textbook lies within the realm of the gardemanger kitchen. As such, there are several products that are butcheredor otherwise preprepared by the garde manger chef and then distributedto other stations of the food service operation to be cooked. Table 8-1reflects the suggested cooking times for game birds and meats by theU.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). Chefs may choose to follow theseguidelines as they deem appropriate.

Note: Table 8-1 merelyillustrates recommendations asset forth by the USDA;however, the times andtemperatures listed are notnecessarily recommended bythe authors or othersrepresented in this text.

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Professional Profile

Name: Martin Couttie

Place of Birth: Paisley, Scotland

Recipe Provided: Venison Mincemeat

CULINARY EDUCATION AND TRAINING HIGHLIGHTS

As apprentices have traditionally done over centuries of Europeanoccupational instruction, Martin Couttie finished normal school at age15 to begin his training in the catering and tourism industry. Hestarted working in a local hotel in his hometown of Paisley and attendedReid Kerr College, before moving to Ayrshire and the stately MarineHighland Hotel overlooking the Royal Troon championship golf course andthe Firth of Clyde. In conjunction with working full time at the hotel,he also attended classes at the Glasgow College of Food Technology.Working through all of the stations in the kitchen, including larder,sauce, vegetables, and pastry, Chef Couttie rose to the position ofexecutive sous chef overseeing the daily operations of three fine diningrestaurants and banquets. In the early 1990s, he left the Marine Hotelto take the position of club manager/executive chef of the exclusiveprivate links-style golf course, Prestwick St. Nicholas Golf Club. Heleft Prestwick and opened the Southern Gailes Golf Course on theAyrshire coast. From there, he started his own catering business. ChefCouttie has shared his expertise as an adjunct chef-instructor atseveral Scottish culinary schools, and coached many of his apprenticesto success in culinary competitions. One of Chef Couttie's traineesbecame the "British Young Chef of the Year."

ADVICE TO A JOURNEY CHEF

Learn everything you can about the preparation of meats, poultry,game, fish, and seafood. Experiment with flavors using herbs, spices,and marinades. Never stop learning--read, listen, discuss and, ifpossible, travel. Be brave and do not be afraid to try out your ownideas. Cookery, at its best, is an art form and as with any art formrequires passion. Conveying your passion to your audience is extremelyfulfilling. Working with a team or likeminded craftsmen is also awonderful experience. Be sure to pass on your passion and knowledge toyoung people entering the industry as others did for you.

RECIPE 8-3Chef MartinCouttie'sVenisonMincemeatRecipe Yield: 8 portionsMEASUREMENTS INGREDIENTSU.S. METRIC4 pounds 1.89 kg Venison, boneless1 pound 473 g Beef suet, chopped1/2 cup 118 ml Candied orange peel1/2 cup 118 ml Lemon juice3 tablespoons 45 ml Orange rind, grated1/2 teaspoon 3 ml Black pepper, ground4 teaspoons 20 ml Ground allspice4 teaspoons 20 ml Cinnamon2 teaspoons 10 ml Ground cloves1/2 cup 118 ml Candied lemon peel1 cup 237 ml Citron, chopped1 cup 237 ml Orange juice4 teaspoons 20 ml Lemon rind, grated1 teaspoon 5 ml Salt4 cups 948 ml Sugar2 teaspoons 10 ml Mace2 teaspoons 10 ml Nutmeg2 quarts 1.89 L Apple cider3 cups 711 ml Raisins2 quarts 1.89 L Sour cherries, pitted3 pounds 1.42 kg Apples, peeled, cored, and chopped1 pint 473 ml BrandyPREPARATION STEPS:1. Place the venison in a large saucepan or small stockpot. Addenough water to cover the meat by 1 inch (2.5 cm).2. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to simmer, partiallycovered for 2 hours, or until meat is tender.3. Drain the venison, patting dry with side towels. Cut into mediumcubes.4. Mince the meat by putting through the medium die of the meatgrinder (Chapter 13).5. Transfer the venison to a large saucepan. Add all of the remainingingredients, except the brandy. Bring to a boil over high heat, thenlower the heat and simmer partially covered for 1 1?2 hours, stirringfrequently.6. Remove from the heat and stir in the brandy; immediately ladleinto hot, sterilized jars and process under boiling water for 10minutes (Chapter 12).7. Store at room temperature for at least 2 weeks before using.TIPThis mixture is used byboth the pastry and gardemanger stations to makepies or tarts.

REVIEW QUESTIONS

1. Explain how the fat in meat affects its flavor.

2. How does aging affect meat?

3. How does the correct procedure for slaughtering an animal affectit* eating quality?

4. What is a marinade?

5. What does marinating do to meat?

6. What affects the quality of game meats?

7. Describe the term barding.

8. Describe the term larding.

9. What is vacuum tumbling?

10. Explain how wild game animals differ from domesticated animals.

ACTIVITIES AND APPLICATIONS

A. Group Discussion

In small groups, discuss the care that needs to be taken whendressing a piece of wild game in the field.

B. Research Project

In groups, research how much game is consumed in your local area byreporting on what is the most popular animal and the most common cookingmethods.

C. Group Activity

Compare the eating qualities of a piece of meat that has had fatand marinade added as compared to one that has not.

D. Individual Activity

Write a four-course wild game dinner menu including appetizer,soup, salad, and entree. Select appropriate wines to accompany the meal.

Table 8-1 Game Cooking Chart (Times Approximate)For tenderness and doneness, the USDA recommends cooking whole gamebirds to 180[degrees]F (82[degrees]C) as measured in the thigh usinga food thermometer. Cook breast meat to 170[degrees]F (77[degrees]C).Ground meats and other cuts of game meat should reach 160[degrees]F(71[degrees]C). Approximate cooking times for use in meal planningare given on the chart below. GRILL/FRYTYPE OF GAME ROAST DIRECT HEATGame BirdsWhole bird, 4 to 6 lb 30 to 35 min/lb Not preferred(1.8 to 2.7 kg) (450 g)(Do not stuff)Breast or parts 350[degrees]F 20 to 40 min (177[degrees]C) 1 to 1 1/4 hoursWhole small birds 350[degrees]F 30 min (177[degrees]C) 45 minGame AnimalsRib roast, bone in 325[degrees]F Not recommended4 to 6 lb (1.8 to 2.7 kg) (163[degrees]C) 27 to 30 min/lb (450 g)Rib roast, boneless, 32 to 38 min/lb Not recommendedrolled 4 to 6 lb (450 g)(1.8 to 2.7 kg)Chuck roast, brisket Not recommended Not recommended3 to 4 lb (1.4 to 1.8 kg)Round or rump roast 325[degrees]F 18 to 25 min/lb2 1/2 to 4 lb (1.1 to 1.8 kg) (163[degrees]C) 35 to 40 min/lb (450 g)Whole leg (boar, deer) 375[degrees]F Not recommended6 to 8 lb (191[degrees]C) 2 hoursTenderloin Whole, 4 to 6 lb 425[degrees]F 12 to 15 min/side (1.8 to 2.7 kg) (218[degrees]C) Half, 2 to 3 lb 45 to 60 min total (1 to 1.4 kg)Tenderloin 425[degrees]F Half, 2 to 3 lb (218[degrees]C) 10 to 12 min/side (1 to 1.4 kg) 45 to 60 min totalSteaks, 3/4-inch (2-cm) Not recommended 6 to 7 min/sidethickGround meat patties Not recommended 6 to 8 min/sideMeat loaf, 1 to 2 lb 350[degrees]F Not recommended(.45 to 2.7 kg) (177[degrees]C) 60 to 90 minStew or shank cross cuts Not recommended Not recommended1 to 1 1/2 inches(2.5 to 3.8 cm) thickRibs, 4 inches (10 cm) 375[degrees]F 8 to 10 min/side (191[degrees]C) 20 min SMOKE/ BRAISE/STEW INTYPE OF GAME INDIRECT HEAT LIQUID; COVEREDGame BirdsWhole bird, 4 to 6 lb 2 1/2 hours Not preferred(1.8 to 2.7 kg)(Do not stuff)Breast or parts 2 hours 60 to 75 minWhole small birds 1 to 1 1/2 45 to 60 min hoursGame AnimalsRib roast, bone in Not recommended Not recommended4 to 6 lb (1.8 to 2.7 kg)Rib roast, boneless, Not recommended Not recommendedrolled 4 to 6 lb(1.8 to 2.7 kg)Chuck roast, brisket Several hours 325[degrees]F3 to 4 lb (1.4 to 1.8 kg) (163[degrees]C) 2 to 3 hoursRound or rump roast 2 1/2 to 3 hours 325[degrees]F2 1/2 to 4 lb (1.1 to 1.8 kg) (163[degrees]C) 2 to 3 hoursWhole leg (boar, deer) 3 to 4 hours Not recommended6 to 8 lbTenderloin Whole, 4 to 6 lb Not recommended Not recommended (1.8 to 2.7 kg) Half, 2 to 3 lb Not recommended Not recommended (1 to 1.4 kg)Tenderloin Not recommended Not recommended Half, 2 to 3 lb (1 to 1.4 kg)Steaks, 3/4-inch (2-cm) Not recommended Not recommendedthickGround meat patties Not recommended Not applicableMeat loaf, 1 to 2 lb Not recommended Not applicable(.45 to 2.7 kg)Stew or shank cross cuts Not recommended Cover with1 to 1 1/2 inches liquid; simmer(2.5 to 3.8 cm) thick 2 to 3 hoursRibs, 4 inches (10 cm) Not recommended Parboil 1 hour; then grill or roast